Mt. McKinley (2011) - Day 04
Stuck at Camp 1
13:00 - It was continuously windy last night. Aside for these brief lulls it just kept going. We started this trip with about forty-seven pounds of food each, and when the wind wouldn't relent today we determined to just hang out, reinforce walls, dig a deep kitchen, eat and drink.
Tomorrow, or whenever the wind let's up (the weather reports keep promising a high pressure system), we're thinking of skipping Camp 2 (9,600 feet) and caching somewhere above that; maybe all the way at Camp 3 (11,200 feet) if we're feeling good. And then, when the weather permits again, we'll move up to Camp 3.
During the ranger orientation I asked about the feasibility of acclimatizing up at 16,500 feet on the upper West Rib instead of at the top of the Head Wall. The ranger emphatically encouraged that, saying that the rangers do the same thing. As conversation on this topic continued, it was decided that we would summit via the upper West Rib, too, thus eliminating an ascent of the Head Wall and fixed lines altogether. In deed, we'll descend the West Buttress (and the Head Wall), but that's so much less annoying that the ascent.
With this logistical change, I don't even kind of regret not being able to climb Sultana Ridge.
I ventured out into the wind and dug a deep kitchen. The wind-facing wall did an excellent job of detouring the wind. I could stand up inside without my head rising above the wall. I crafted a couple benches and two stairs for stepping down into it.
And them I got the CMC and used the new kitchen as a crapper. Nothing is sacred out here. Some snow gets used for honorable use, and other snow not so much.
The AAI group that we passed up on the way to Camp 1 yesterday strolled into camp (yesterday), set up their tents and retired. Their camp lacked walls, and their tents we're just getting hammered by the wind. As I was finishing up kitchen wall construction, they assembled to begin their own camp wall construction, and they did a very decent job for a small team of four.
Time to eat more goldfish.
16:00 - After a very refreshing and comfortably warm nap, we heard the strange sounds of a German couple near by. Like a champ, Wes stuck his head out into the harsh wind and found them moving their tent into our kitchen/crapper. Wes has decided to go outside and build us another. My suggestion was to use our CMC next to their tent. Of the two of us, he evidently brings maturity to the team.
I joined him outside (along with my helmet cam), to help him build walls. That's not a metaphor. Now, when I'm asked, "just how windy was it?", I'll have a video with which to answer.
The wall-building AAI team just suited up, apparently for a carry, and started their way up Ski Hill towards Camp 2. It's 17:30 right now, and they're probably still hours away. And then they have to turn around and make their way back here, tonight. And for what? The weather is only predicted to get better. They're a day ahead, but miserable. Whatever. More power to 'em. I suppose the guides effectively earn more money if they finish sooner.
Dinner tonight is ramen, chicken and broccoli. Mmm.
20:00 - I don't know what happened to that high pressure system Lisa was hyping. Tomorrow is supposed to feature 30mph winds. We've decided that if it looks a little better than today, they we'll go ahead and cache at Camp 3.
When that sun sets, the temperature drops so fast. An hour ago I was out in a t-shirt and now I need a sleeping bag.
